Kyajo Ri Expedition

Kyajo Ri (6,186m) is a technical climbing peak in the Everest region. Kyajo Ri has only been open for a few years as well as is currently uncrowded.

The adventure starts with a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla. Trekking through the Khumbu Region, which provides us with breathtaking mountain views and the opportunity to learn about the Sherpa way of life.

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Difficulty Level

Hard

Best Season

Autumn & Spring

Duration

17 Days

Elevation

6,186m

Group Size

2 - 6

Trip Type

6000M Expedition

2024
6000M Expedition

  • Starts from Kathmandu, Nepal

Overview

Highlights

  • One of the least explored and climbed peak.
  • Technical mixed climbing peak.
  • Climb a 6000m peak in pure alpine style.

 

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing provides a unique 6000m greater experience because it is one of the least explored peaks in comparison to surrounding peaks. Kyajo Ri Peak, at 6,186m, is located between Thame and Gokyo valleys. The climbing area was officially opened in 2002, and the first ascent was made that same year by British and French teams.

 

It is considered a technical peak, which means that previous experience at this level is required. The commercial route follows the ridge to the southwest. The Southeast Ridge is more difficult, but it is also accessible from the northeast face. In a few sections, the climb involves mixed rock, snow, and ice climbing on steep pitches. Before we reach the summit, there will be two camps above Base Camp. To complete this difficult climb, you have to follow to the proper acclimatization schedule and work as a team.

Day

  • When you arrive at Kathmandu airport our representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions will be there to greet you and when you have gone through customs formalities our representative will pick you up and transfer you to your hotel. Once you are checked in our climbing guide and other participants will go through the final preparation for the trip. In the evening get ready to be introduced to Nepali cuisines.

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Welcoming
    Accommodation Hotel

    The guide goes through preparation and briefing with the team and formal procedures regarding the Ministry of Tourism you will be engaged in exploring the fascinating sights of the city. Our guided tour will lead you to some UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu valley. This final day is also for final necessary arrangements and a last-minute briefing on the expedition and grouping with the expedition team.

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Preparation
    Accommodation Hotel

    We fly in the early hours to Lukla for about 40 minutes. The mountains projected from above often captivate the heart of the passengers as the sun rises and reflects on the majestic Himalayas. Right after we land in Lukla we gather to go over the itinerary and equipment before our trek to Phakding begins. Phakding consists of flat terrain and is populated by the Sherpas. Decorated with Monasteries and prayer stones with mountains that allure from the backdrop to anyone who witnesses the marvel as we carry on with the trail leading to Namche.

    Altitude 2,610m
    Activities Flight & Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    As we passed by two small suspension bridges up the banks of Dudh Kosi, we arrived at the village of Monjo from where we will be entering in the check-point of Sagarmatha National Park. About 2 hours after crossing Dudh and Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and steeply hiking we reach Namche Bazaar.

    Altitude 3,440m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    Khunde is a small village in the Khumbu Pasanglhamu rural municipality of Solukhumbu District in north-eastern Nepal’s Province No. 1. It is located within Sagarmatha National Park, a world heritage site.

    Altitude 3,900m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    We will leave Khumjung and we will start the day early in the morning towards Kyajo-Ri base camp, by hiking straight uphill towards the Khumuche himal, the chain of rocky peaks at whose end Kyajo-Ri rises tall. A steep trail, side cut on the slopes, gains elevation slowly towards treeline. The path is scenic with views of Thamserku, Kusum Kangaru, Pacharmo and other mountains. We will arrive at the flat surface near river where we will set our camp and stay overnight.

    Altitude 4,550m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Camping

    While we acclimatize, we will train you in basic climbing techniques such as rope climbing and demonstrate how to use the ice axe, safety changing, and brief on other necessary climbing equipment and safety so that you are prepared well for the summit.

    Altitude 4,550m
    Activities Acclimatisation
    Accommodation Camping

    As usual, we wake up at 7am, and after breakfast, pack a light lunch and enough liquid, we head out to camp 1. Our journey continues through grassy spur from where we hike the rocky section through boulders and pebbles to reach camp 1. We will find the flat area where we set our camp 1. There, our guides prepare to pitch tents and meals, once everything is set, we will serve a heartwarming soup and hot tea to keep your body warm as we stay here for the night. Our camp site is scenic with panoramic views of surrounding mountains.

    Altitude 5,200m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Camping

    This day we will take rest as it will helps us in proper acclimatisation of our body. We save energy for the final ascent of Kyajo – Ri summit, we drink enough liquid.

    Altitude 5,200m
    Activities Rest
    Accommodation Camping

    The adventure continues as we find our way up onto the Kyajo – Ri  Glacier when the trail becomes slippery. Climbing to Camp 2 is more technical as we need to move through 55 degrees slope. At the end, we reach the col where we will find clear area near glaciated lake for Camp 2. The campsite is scenic with awe-inspiring views of surrounding mountains.

    Altitude 5,700m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Camping

    Summit day on Kyajo Ri is a rewarding experience and a climbers’ delight. We will start the climb early in the morning before sunrise. After having breakfast, we will move through boulders and glacier to arrive to the Southwestern ridge. We will climb through snow, ice and small rock section to Kyajo Ri summit. The views of eight-thousand-meter peaks including Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu, and many other peaks are images that will leave a lasting impression. After taking pictures and enjoying the view from the summit, we initiate our 15-20 full rope length rappels to camp 2. We will continue descending to Camp 2 where we will stay overnight.

    Altitude 6,186m
    Activities Climbing
    Accommodation Camping

    Unpredictable Weather conditions can make our journey more difficult. So just in case the weather forecast is not favorable we allot this day as a spare day In such case, the contingency day will be useful for sticking up to the plan.

    Altitude 5,700m
    Activities Contingency day
    Accommodation Camping

    We descend to base camp from camp 2 after successful summit of Kyajo – Ri peak. We will stay overnight at base camp.

    Altitude 4,550m
    Activities Descending
    Accommodation Camping

    We will make it back to Namche Bazaar from base camp. The trail is easy where we will be pursuing the descending trail for most part of the hike. Before we arrive to Namche, we will pass through rhododendron forest and small Sherpa settlements. We stay overnight in Namche.

    Altitude 3,440m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    We head back to Lukla from Namche Bazaar as the trail descends through the luscious pine trees. Following Dudh Koshi River and crossing the suspension bridges a few times until reaching Phakding village from here onwards the walk is pleasant and gentle all the way to Lukla.

    Altitude 2,860m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    After our mountain journey, we will catch an early flight to Kathmandu. It’s time for some rest and relaxation so we can explore other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. And if not, well – maybe tomorrow! There will be a farewell celebration dinner in the evening to celebrate the successful completion of our climbing.

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Flight
    Accommodation Hotel

    It’s your last day with us. We are pleased that you have experienced the  Kyajo-Ri climbing. We wish you a wonderful return flight home, and hope that the next opportunity to see one another will be just as pleasant!

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Int'l flight
    Accommodation Hotel

    The price of your trip includes the following:

    1.  Kyajo Ri climbing royalty fees
    2.  Certified IFMGA mountain guide with his daily wages and full insurance etc
    3.  Garbage disposal & management fees
    4.  Sagarmatha national park permit and Tims entry fees
    5.  Summit route fixing fees
    6.  Hotel / Airport pick up and drop by private tourist vehicle
    7.  Standard accommodation in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast for three nights
    8.  Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla both way
    9.  Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffle bag, Cap, and T-shirt per member
    10.  Accommodation & food in the local lodge are on full board during the trip
    11.  Medical kit during the trip
    12.  Porters to carry trekking and expeditions gear (1:1 ratios)
    13.  Base camp single dome tent and hot shower
    14.  Camp 1, camp 2, tents are sharing members and guides
    15.  High food for members and guides
    16.  Experienced Sherpa support with his wages, full insurance
    17.  All our government taxes, vat, tourist service charges
    18.  Satellite Phone for emergency case
    19.  All accommodation, wages, insurance, equipment, and medicine for all staff
    20.  All official expenses

    The price of your trip does not include:

    1. International flight tickets
    2. Nepal entry visa fees
    3. Meals in Kathmandu
    4. Alcohol and Soft drinks
    5. Internet (WiFi)
    6. Personal clothing and climbing equipment
    7. Personal First Aid Kit
    8. Special Drone Permit fees
    9. Personal travel insurance and medical / rescue insurance
    10. Tips for Guides, Climbing Sherpa, base camp staff, and porters
    € 4500 EURO

    Details

    Our budget cost option presents an affordable alternative for individuals seeking a mountaineering experience without the higher price tag of the regular and premium options. This package retains the same level of service as the regular option, including group guiding with a minimum of 4 people per group, offering the chance to share the journey with fellow adventurers. The budget cost package encompasses professional guidance from our skilled team, a well-structured itinerary, and accommodations in budget hotels and lodges throughout the trip.

    € 5500 EURO

    Details

    • The regular cost is for up to 2 pax per person, with a limit of 4 pax in a group. However we have two IFMGA mountain guides in this group.

    Our regular cost option offers an excellent value for adventurers seeking an unforgettable mountaineering experience. With this package, you’ll have the opportunity to attempt stunning peaks, receive professional guidance from our experienced team, and enjoy a well-planned itinerary. Designed for groups, the regular cost option requires a minimum of 2 members to join the expedition, ensuring a shared experience and camaraderie throughout the journey. It’s an affordable and exciting way to embark on a memorable mountaineering adventure.

     

    € 9600 EURO

    Details

    • Private 1:1 guiding with an IFMGA Mountain Guide service
    • More flexibility
    • Travel consciously
    • Enjoy exclusive benefits

    For those seeking a truly personalised and flexible adventure, our premium cost option is the perfect choice. With the premium package, you’ll receive exclusive benefits such as 1:1 private guiding, allowing for a more personalised experience tailored to your specific goals and preferences. This option provides the utmost flexibility in scheduling and ensures that you receive dedicated attention from our expert guides throughout the expedition. Indulge in the luxury of private guiding and elevate your mountaineering experience with our premium cost option.

    Alpinist Climber Expeditions is well-known for its expertise in leading pure alpine style expeditions, as well as 1:1private guiding with an IFMGA-certified mountain guide and high-quality service throughout the expedition. With over a decade of experience in mountaineering expedition planning and coordination, we ensure that each expedition is a success with the best possible experience for our climbers while focusing on our three primary goals of reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun! Our top priority is always safety.

     

    Our IFMGA mountain guides are the most qualified and experienced in the industry. You’ll find a strong understanding of technical climbing, expedition, and high-altitude experiences, as well as strong interpersonal skills. Our teams provide the best support system available, ensuring the best possible chance of success.

    The best seasons to climb Kyajo Ri is spring and autumn. The trekking and climbing last about 18 days. You will stay in the lodge for the majority of the trip; however, during the climbing, we will have to set up camping tents.

    We will take a minimum of 2 members and 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide for the Kyajo Ri peak, and a maximum of 5 members and 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides.

    Prakash Sherpa (Pemba), CEO / IFMGA Mountain Guide.

    Prakash Sherpa, director of Alpinist Climber Expeditions and a veteran of decades of high altitude expedition guiding and organising.

     

    Our Tour Guides

    Our Himalayan peak trip leaders have extensive experience at high altitudes and an excellent record of safety, success, and compatibility.

    Bodywear

    1. Down suit
    2. Down jacket
    3. Waterproof jacket and over-trousers that goes over your alpine boot
    4. Balaclava – recommended BUFF or similar covering nose and face
    5. Long sleeve thermal shirt and trousers
    6. Fleece jacket and trousers

    Handwear

    1. Liner gloves – thin and warm
    2. Down mitts
    3. Gore-Tex Primaloft glove.
    4. Mountain gloves – recommended water and windproof
    5. Smartwool mountaineering socks (2 pairs – new)
    6. Ultra-soft running / Hiking socks (2 pairs – new)
    7. Mountaineering boot – recommended La Sportive, etc.
    8. Alpine boot – recommended La Sportive and Scarpa, etc.

    Climbing Equipment

    1. Climbing Helmet (UIAA tested)
    2. Harness – recommended Petzl or BD
    3. Goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
    4. Sun glasses UV protection
    5. Headlamp – recommended Petzl or BD
    6. Spare batteries – recommended Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries
    7. Ascender (Jumer) – recommended Petzl or BD
    8. Abseiling device – recommended Petzl or BD ATC guide
    9. Screw gate carabiners (2 x large, 2 small sizes) recommended Petzl or BD
    10. Bent gate carabiners (2 medium sizes) – recommended Petzl or BD
    11. 6 mm rope – recommended 2 meters UIAA tested
    12. 6 mm rope – recommended 5 meters UIAA tested
    13. Dynamic 8 mm rope – recommended 2 meters UIAA tested
    14. Classical alpine ice-ax – recommended Petzl, Grivel, or BD
    15. Crampons that fit mountaineering boots – recommended Grivel, Petzl, or BD

    Other equipment

    1. Sleeping bag (comfort rated – 20 degrees
    2. Headlamp with spare batteries
    3. Water bottles 1 liter
    4. First aid kit
    5. 45–60-liter Rucksack
    6. Base camp duffle bag – XXL
    7. Swiss army knife with a multi-tools system or Leatherman
    8. 1-liter stainless steel thermos – that works in extreme weather conditions

    Headwear

    1. Sun hat or Normal Cap
    2. Fleece or woolen hat
    3. Sunglasses with UV protection
    4. Buff scarf / thin face mask

    Handwear

    1. Fleece or woolen thin gloves
    2. Gore-Tex mitten gloves

    Bodywear

    1. Gore-Tex jacket
    2. Gore-Tex pant
    3. Hiking pant
    4. Fleece trousers and jacket or warm jumper – recommended not thick but warm enough that fits inside the Gore-Tex pant
    5. Anti-sweat T-shirt
    6. Thermal inner trouser
    7. Down jacket with hoodie

    Footwear

    1. Trekking boots
    2. Slipper
    3. Trekking socks (4-5 pairs)
    4. Snow gaiter

    Other equipment

    1. Sleeping bag (comfort rated – 20 degrees
    2. 45-liter rucksack with cover
    3. Large size duffle bag with padlock
    4. Headlamp with spare batteries
    5. Water bottles 1 liter
    6. Thermos
    7. First aid kit
    8. Trekking poles

    Washing kit & Toiletries

    1. Waterproof washing kit bag
    2. Towel – medium size
    3. Washing soap, towel, tooth pest, toothbrush, etc.
    4. Sun lotion enough +50SPF (including total bloc for lips, nose, etc.)
    5. Handwash & sanitizer
    6. Toilet paper (you can buy it in the Lodges)
    7. Wet tissues

    Please read carefully our terms and conditions. Terms and Conditions are a very important part of the trip for members who are willing to book Expedition, Peak climbing, or trekking with Alpinist Climber Expeditions.

    The terms and conditions contain the information to the client regarding the procedures of Booking Confirmation, Payment and Refund System and Cancellation policy, and other important information about your trip. The Booking Terms and Conditions constitute a legally required contract between Alpinist Climber Expeditions along with you for the services to be provided. The details of our Terms and Conditions are listed below.

    Currency
    • Alpinist Climber Expeditions accepts payment in Euros (€) and US dollars (US$). The currency will be
      applied based on the location of the client. Once the initial deposit/payment has been paid, all
      subsequent fees will be applied in the same currency.
    Deposit
    • When Alpinist Climber Expeditions issues the written confirmation receipt of your deposit amount the
      existence of the booking will be confirmed. Alpinist Climber Expeditions kindly requests you to make a
      deposit of 20% cost of your trip. You are supposed to pay the remaining amount upon your arrival in
      Kathmandu. You need to send your deposit to the Company. In the case of the customized trip, you
      should do a 50% deposit as it will cover all intensive details. We accept a last-minute booking with 100%
      payment in some cases.
    Amendments
    • If you wish to make amendments to your tour arrangements we require notification to Alpinist Climber
      Expeditions in writing. If any government permits, flight tickets, or insurance has been issued and cannot be
      revoked and refunded you will be liable for these costs. You may also be liable for the cancellation fee of
      airfares purchased on your behalf.
    Cancellation Policy

    The future is unpredictable. Notice of cancellation shall be submitted by the client in writing providing
    a reason(s) for cancellation. The refund procedure will be as follows:

     

    • Cancellation before 60 days of the trip, 20% cancellation will be charged.

     

    • Cancellation Before 30 days of the trip 40% cancellation will be charged.

     

    • Cancellation Before 15 days of the trip 60% cancellation will be charged.

     

    • Cancellation Before 07 days of the trip 70% cancellation will be charged.

     

    If cancellation is made within the week of the departure or upon arrival in Kathmandu no
    refund shall be provided. Any remaining payment will be required at this time. The cost of
    Climbing Permit/Insurance/Equipment allowance is not refundable in any period of cancellation.

    Personal insurance - a matter of protection
    • Travel insurance is not included in the tour price, but it is a required condition of booking a trip with
      Alpinist Climber Expeditions and your responsibility to ensure that you are adequately insured for the
      full duration of the trip covering expenses against all possible risks including missed flights, canceled
      trips, baggage loss, emergency medical evacuation, high altitude accidents, and other unforeseeable
      events. All costs for emergency evacuation must be paid in cash in Nepal unless an insurance
      company has agreed to pay the costs on your behalf. It is important to ensure that your personal
      travel insurance covers all of the activities you participate in the Himalayas.
    Client's responsibility
    • The client / You are responsible to insure yourself with an insurance policy that covers
      medical expenses, flight cancellation, trip cancellation, emergency evacuation, and any other
      unforeseeable events that may cause loss to you.

     

    • The client is responsible to bear all expenses of personal nature and any extra cost resulted
      due to extended stay because of natural calamities, political strikes, and any uncontrollable
      events.

     

    • The client is responsible to book the flight tickets with a flexible time frame as traveling in the
      The Himalayas can be unpredictable. In case of missed flights, the client shall be solely
      responsible to bear the loss.

     

    • If you wish to add extra services mentioned by the company in the Cost Inclusions
      section of each package, you shall be entitled to bear the extra costs.
    Company's responsibility
    • The company is fully responsible to provide all the services mentioned in the Cost Inclusions
      section.

     

    • The company is responsible to introduce all the team members to guides, Climbing
      Sherpas, Staff, and manager.

     

    • The company is fully responsible to make the best arrangements for food, lodging, and
      accommodation during the trip.

     

    • The company is responsible to hear out the concerns of the member in terms of safety.

     

    • The company is responsible to make prompt arrangements in case of emergencies during the
      trek and expeditions.

     

    • The company is responsible to provide valuable service to the clients and deserves pay to
      the staff.
    Passport and Visa
    • It is your responsibility that you carry a valid passport and have rightly obtained the appropriate
      visas when traveling with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. Please ensure that your passport is valid for 6 months from the Nepal Visa validity date.
    Privacy
    • As part of the booking and permit process, we will need to obtain personal information from each
      client. Your personal will be kept by us in a secure way and none of your private or personal
      information will be disclosed for any other purpose.
    Authority
    • This agreement and the rights and obligations of the parties will be construed and take effect in
      accordance with and be governed by the laws of Nepal.

    Wishing you the best time in Nepal, Come as a friend goes as a family….. The land of Adventure and Hospitality.

    When is the best time to attempt Kyajo Ri?

    The best periods to attempt Kyajo Ri are spring (March, April, and May) and autumn (September, October, and November). The weather during these times in the Himalayan region remains stable, which is perfect for adventure activities. Although, if you want an extra challenge, you can attempt Kyajo Ri during the early winter season but you have to be ready for the extreme cold conditions.

    How hard is Kyajo Ri?

    The difficulty level of Kyajo Ri peak varies, but it’s generally considered a challenging climb and is often rated as a technical peak requiring mountaineering skills. In the alpine style approach, Kyajo Ri considered an AD grade which means that the route can involve steep climbing or long snow/ice slopes above 50 degrees, glacier crossings, and potentially hazardous conditions. Climbers attempting Kyajo Ri should have previous climbing experience and be well-prepared for the physical and technical challenges it presents. Despite the difficulty, Alpinist Climber Expeditions provide a short training before every ascent which makes it easier for the climbers and ensures safety and success.

    What training is needed for Kyajo Ri climb?

    Kyajo Ri peak is a technical climb so that means that a previous experience in a 4000m or 6000m peak is necessary to feel comfortable during the climb. Physical conditioning is also crucial, involving cardiovascular endurance, strength training, and acclimatization exercises. Prior experience with high-altitude climbs and technical ascents is highly recommended to ensure safety and success on the challenging terrain of Kyajo Ri. During the expedition you will be able to learn with our guides the basic mountaineering techniques. We recommend you the Island Peak and Kyajo Ri Combo Package where you can prepare yourself in Island Peak before heading to Kyajo Ri.

    What is the approach/route for the climb?
    Our Kyajo Ri Climb itinerary consists a total of 17 days including a contingency day. Our climb begins with a trek to Namche 3440m at first, where we will spend 2 nights for acclimatization. From here, we go up to Khunde 3900m and spend a night there before heading to base camp 4550m. After our acclimatization trek, we reach Kyajo Ri base camp from where our actual climb begins. After base camp we follow the Southwest ridge of Kyajo Ri and we set two higher camps with the last camp at 5700m.
    What is the guide to client ratio?

    On Kyajo Ri climbing trip, we provide two different options. The one is 1:3 guide to client ratio and the other one is 1:1 private guiding. In both options there will be one lead IFMGA Mountain Guide and a Sherpa guide to assist you during the climb.

    What is the success rate of Alpinist Climber Expeditions in Kyajo Ri Peak?

    Alpinist Climber Expeditions has two successful Kyajo Ri summits in 2022-2023 with 100% success rate. It is worth mentioning that our team was the only one during these seasons to make it to the summit of Kyajo Ri. You can follow us on social media to get more updates about our upcoming Kyajo Ri expeditions.

    Who guides Kyajo Ri expedition?

    For the upcoming Kyajo Ri trips in both spring and autumn seasons our director and IFMGA mountain guide Prakash Sherpa will be leading the expeditions. Prakash Sherpa has several successful 8000m and 6000m climbs including Kyajo Ri twice. Among with him, other experienced guides will assist you during the climb. We want to ensure that our clients will have a safe and successful trip with us.

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