Island Peak (Imja Tse) Expedition

Imja Tse, known like Island Peak is a mountain in Sagarmatha national park. The members of the British Mount Everest Expedition in 1953 name the peak Island peak because it  looks like an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.

In 1983, climbers renamed the peak to Imja Tse, but the popular name is Island Peak. This peak is an extension of the ridge that comes down off the south end of Lhotse Shar. 

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Difficulty Level

Moderate

Best Season

Autumn / Spring

Duration

17 days

Elevation

6,160m

Group Size

3 - 10

Trip Type

6000M Expedition

2024
6000M Expedition

  • Starts from Kathmandu, Nepal

Overview

The peak climbing is not only an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most amazing sceneries of the Himalayas falling in the regions of Khumbu.  Island Peak is clearly visible located at the top of the valley as a pyramid of ice and rock. Its similarity to an island in a sea of ice was the reason for its name by Eric Shipton. The mountain itself is an annex of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar that is distinguished by col and the ridge rising to the south leading to the top of Island Peak. 

 

The proceeding route follows the Chhukung Valley to Base Camp, from where the climb gets challenging varying with weather conditions accompanied by a section moving in rope teams across glaciated terrain upward a 300-meter headwall towards the summit ridge. The headwall is secured with a rope to clip onto, and this stretches all the way along an exposed summit ridge about 300 meters long which is narrow but not steep. The top is quite a small space with only enough room to fit for maybe four or five people to stand safely. 

Day

  • When you arrive at Kathmandu airport our representative from Alpinist Climber Expedition will be there to greet you and when you have gone through customs formalities our representative will pick you up and transfer you to your hotel.

    Once you are checked in our Guide and other participants will go through the final preparation for the trip. In the evening get ready to be introduced to Nepali cuisines.

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Welcoming in Nepal
    Accommodation Hotel

    The guide goes through preparation and briefing with the team and formal procedures regarding the Ministry of Tourism you will be engaged in exploring the fascinating sights of the city. Our guided tour will lead you to some UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Kathmandu valley. This final day is also for final necessary arrangements and a last-minute briefing on the expedition and grouping with the expedition team.

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Preparation
    Accommodation Hotel

    We fly in the early hours to Lukla for about 40 minutes. The mountains projected from above often captivate the heart of the passengers as the sun rises and reflects on the majestic Himalayas. Right after we land in Lukla we gather to go over the itinerary and equipment before our trek to Phakding begins. Phakding consists of flat terrain and is populated by the Sherpas. Decorated with Monasteries and prayer stones with mountains that allure from the backdrop to anyone who witnesses the marvel as we carry on with the trail leading to Namche.

    Altitude 2,610m
    Activities Flight and Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    As we passed by two small suspension bridges up the banks of Dudh Kosi, we arrived at the village of Monjo from where we will be entering in the check-point of Sagarmatha National Park. About 2 hours after crossing Dudh and Bhote Kosi on a high suspension bridge and steeply hiking we reach Namche Bazaar.

    Altitude 3,440m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    As we are at a high altitude it is important to acclimatize hence this day. We acclimatize and rest allowing our body to rejuvenate at an altitude of 3,450m. To keep the momentum and stay active we take the small hike to Everest View Point or make a visit to Khumjung or explore around the robust trading sites of Namche Bazaar.

    Altitude 3,440m
    Activities Acclimatisation
    Accommodation Lodge

    You must have acclimatized by now and also attuned to the Himalayas and Sherpa way of life. Therefore, we can proceed to move closer to the Sagarmatha through the infamous national park as Dudh Kosi would continue to enchant us on our way. The trail gets flatter as we get out of Namche Bazaar. After about 6 km the trail begins to ascent. After about 3 km more we would be at the gate of Tengboche monastery, the largest and the most famous in the whole Khumbu region. After a visit to the monastery, we will continue the downhill walk to our rest for the night, Diboche village. Diboche is warmer, therefore, we will skip Tengboche and we will stay in Dibuche instead.

    Altitude 3,860m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    As we come closer to the Everest region, we move up the tree line, the terrain becomes increasingly sparse and shortly we are greeted by Imja Khola. Granted good weather, enchanting views of Ama Dablam can be seen regarded as the most beautiful mountains of the day. We cover a distance of 9 km and level up about 600m to reach Dingboche.

    Altitude 4,410m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    Today we will head all the way to Chhukung. It gives you the opportunity to experience areas that most do not get to see and stop to rest and acclimatize.

    Altitude 4,730m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    Acclimatization is a high priority once you reach Chhukung. We rest and acclimatize while we stroll leisurely around for a good stretch.

    Altitude 5,546m
    Activities Acclimatisation
    Accommodation Lodge

    Our destination for today is the Island peak base camp. And right after breakfast, we pick up the trail that lasts for four hours to the camp. We go over a quick training which is always helpful in practicing some crucial skills after setting up the tents.

    Altitude 5,100m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Camping

    After a hearty breakfast, we head early in the morning to the high camp ascending narrow slopes and steep rock paths that lead us to our camp where we stay overnight. Our staff will wait for us there with hot tea and soup.

    Altitude 5,500m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Camping

    We head out early in the morning and go over to inspect the equipment and for a quick breakfast. We begin the sharp ascent for a good three hours or so. After reaching the snow line. We move ahead as our crampons hold us firm on to the trail and we push for the next exhausting five hours before finally arriving at the summit. It calls for a celebration as the spectacular views evoke emotions that are rewarding those prompts expressions like hugging, crying, and lots of selfies and photographs. As the weather is unpredictable, we descend to the base and stop for the night.

    Altitude 6,160m
    Activities Climbing
    Accommodation Camping

    Head back to Dingboche after a rewarding, successful summit. We will stop at Dingboche for the night. We trek over the Imja khola via a bridge and follow trails to Chhukung. Chhukung is widley popular as trekkers and climbers stop here to acclimatize and enjoy the views. After our break, we move on to Dingboche through Imja Khola.

    Altitude 4,410m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    We move forward through a downhill trail to Namche and have lunch before participating in the bustling trade center the Namche Bazaar where we will stay the night. We will walk the same route to reach Namche Bazaar so it will be more like a revision of the scenery around but heavenly views of peaks like Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam etc. After 6 to 7 hours of hiking on the uphill and downhill trails, you’ll be back in Namche Bazaar. And also, there are plenty of shops where you can pick up souvenirs for family or friends.

    Altitude 3,440m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    The trail out of Namche descends rapidly. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast-flowing Dudh Koshi and its tributaries, the trail levels out. After we arrive in Lukla, we enjoy a celebratory team dinner including some Nepalese dancing. Overnight in Lukla.

    Altitude 2,860m
    Activities Hiking
    Accommodation Lodge

    After our long mountain journey, we will catch an early flight to Kathmandu. It’s time for some rest and relation so we can explore other areas of Kathmandu, we may do that today. And if not, well – maybe tomorrow! There will be a farewell celebration dinner in the evening to celebrate the successful completion of our climbing.

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Flight
    Accommodation Hotel

    It’s your last day with us. We are pleased that you have experienced the Island Peak climbing. We wish you a wonderful return flight home, and hope that the next opportunity to see one another will be just as pleasant!

    Altitude 1,330m
    Activities Int'l flight
    Accommodation Hotel
       

    The price of your trip includes the following:

    1.  Island Peak climbing royalty fees
    2.  Certified IFMGA mountain guide with his daily wages and full insurance etc
    3.  Garbage disposal & management fees
    4.  Sagarmatha national park permit and Tims entry fees
    5.  Summit route fixing fees
    6.  Hotel / Airport pick up and drop by private tourist vehicle
    7.  Standard accommodation in a 4-star hotel in Kathmandu with breakfast for three nights
    8.  Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla both way
    9.  Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffle bag, Cap, and T-shirt per member
    10.  Accommodation & food in the local lodge are on full board during the trip
    11.  Medical kit during the trip
    12.  Porters to carry trekking and expeditions gear (1:1 ratios)
    13.  Base camp single dome tent and hot shower
    14.  High camp tents are sharing members and guides
    15.  High food for members and guides
    16.  Experienced Sherpa support with his wages, full insurance
    17.  All our government taxes, vat, tourist service charges
    18.  Satellite Phone for emergency case
    19.  All accommodation, wages, insurance, equipment, and medicine for all staff
    20.  All official expenses

    The price of your trip does not include:

    1. International flight tickets
    2. Nepal entry visa fees
    3. Meals in Kathmandu
    4. Alcoholic beverages
    5. Internet (WiFi)
    6. Personal clothing and climbing equipment
    7. Personal First Aid Kit
    8. Personal travel insurance, medical and rescue insurance
    9. Special drone permit fees
    10. Tips for guides, porters, and base camp staff
    € 2600 EURO

    Details

    Our budget cost option presents an affordable alternative for individuals seeking a mountaineering experience without the higher price tag of the regular and premium options. This package retains the same level of service as the regular option, including group guiding with a minimum of 5 people per group, offering the chance to share the journey with fellow adventurers. The budget cost package encompasses professional guidance from our skilled team, a well-structured itinerary, and accommodations in budget hotels and lodges throughout the trip.

    € 3500 EURO

    Details

    • This cost is for up to 3 pax per person

    Our regular cost option offers an excellent value for adventurers seeking an unforgettable mountaineering experience. With this package, you’ll have the opportunity to attempt stunning peaks, receive professional guidance from our experienced team, and enjoy a well-planned itinerary. Designed for groups, the regular cost option requires a minimum of 3 members to join the expedition, ensuring a shared experience and camaraderie throughout the journey. It’s an affordable and exciting way to embark on a memorable mountaineering adventure.

    € 5500 EURO

    Details

    • Private 1:1 guiding service for each member
    • More flexibility
    • Travel consciously
    • Enjoy exclusive benefits

    For those seeking a truly personalised and flexible adventure, our premium cost option is the perfect choice. With the premium package, you’ll receive exclusive benefits such as 1:1 private guiding, allowing for a more personalised experience tailored to your specific goals and preferences. This option provides the utmost flexibility in scheduling and ensures that you receive dedicated attention from our expert guides throughout the expedition. Indulge in the luxury of private guiding and elevate your mountaineering experience with our premium cost option.

    Alpinist Climber Expeditions is known for its expertise in leading pure alpine style expeditions, and 1:1 private guiding with a certified IFMGA mountain guide as well as high-quality service throughout the expedition. Having more than a decade of years of experience in the planning and coordination of mountaineering expeditions, we achieve in ensuring each expedition is a successful one with the best possible experience for our climbers while focusing on our 3 primary goals which are, reaching the summit, returning safely, and having fun! Safety is always our number one priority.

     

    Our IFMGA mountain guides are the best and most experienced in the guiding field. you’ll find having a strong grasp of technical climbing, expedition, and high-altitude experiences, along with strong interpersonal skills. Our teams offer the best support system available that ensures the highest chance of success.

    The best period to climb the Island peak in spring and autumn. The duration of trekking and climbing is about 17 days. For most of the trip, you will stay in local lodges and during the climbing, we have to set up camping tents.

    For the Island peak, we will take a minimum size of 5 members and 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide and a maximum size of 10 members, and 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides.

     

    Prakash Sherpa (Pemba), CEO / IFMGA Mountain Guide

    The peak climbing is being organized by Prakash Sherpa, director of Alpinist Climber Expeditions and a veteran of decades of High altitude expedition guiding and organization.

    Our Guides

    Our trip leaders on Himalayan peaks are immensely experienced at high altitudes with a remarkable proven record of safety, success, and compatibility.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Bodywear

    1. Down suit – Recommended the best brand
    2. Down jacket – recommended the best brand
    3. Waterproof jacket and over-trousers that goes over your alpine boot
    4. Balaclava – recommended BUFF or similar covering nose and face
    5. Long sleeve thermal shirt and trousers
    6. Fleece jacket and trousers

    Handwear

    1. Liner gloves – thin and warm
    2. Down mitts
    3. Gore-Tex Primaloft glove.
    4. Mountain gloves – recommended water and windproof
    5. Smartwool mountaineering socks (2 pairs – new)
    6. Ultra-soft running / Hiking socks (2 pairs – new)
    7. Mountaineering boot – recommended La Sportive, etc.
    8. Alpine boot – recommended La Sportive and Scarpa, etc.

    Climbing Equipment

    1. Climbing Helmet (UIAA tested)
    2. Harness – recommended Petzl or BD
    3. Goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
    4. Sun glasses UV protection
    5. Headlamp – recommended Petzl or BD
    6. Spare batteries – recommended Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries
    7. Ascender (Jummer) – recommended Petzl or BD
    8. Abseiling device – recommended Petzl or BD ATC guide
    9. Screw gate carabiners (2 x large, 2 small sizes) recommended Petzl or BD
    10. Bent gate carabiners (2 medium sizes) – recommended Petzl or BD
    11. 6 mm rope – recommended 2 meters UIAA tested
    12. 6 mm rope – recommended 5 meters UIAA tested
    13. Dynamic 8 mm rope – recommended 2 meters UIAA tested
    14. Classical alpine ice-ax – recommended Petzl, Grivel, or BD
    15. Crampons that fit mountaineering boots – recommended Grivel, Petzl or BD

    Other equipment

    1. 45–75-liter Rucksack
    2. Base camp duffle bag – XXL
    3. Swiss army knife with a multi-tools system or Leatherman
    4. 1-liter stainless steel thermos – that works in extreme weather conditions

    Headwear

    1. Sun hat or Normal Cap
    2. Fleece or woolen hat
    3. Sunglasses with UV protection
    4. Buff scarf / thin face mask

    Handwear

    1. Fleece or woolen thin gloves
    2. Gore-Tex mitten gloves

    Bodywear

    1. Gore-Tex jacket
    2. Gore-Tex pant
    3. Hiking pant
    4. Fleece trousers and jacket or warm jumper – recommended not thick but warm enough that fits inside the Gore-Tex pant
    5. Anti-sweat T-shirt
    6. Thermal inner trouser
    7. Down jacket with hoodie

    Footwear

    1. Trekking boots
    2. Slipper
    3. Trekking socks (4-5 pairs)
    4. Snow gaiter

    Other equipment

    1. Sleeping bag (comfort rated – 20 degrees
    2. 45-liter rucksack with cover
    3. Large size duffle bag with padlock
    4. Headlamp with spare batteries
    5. Water bottles 1 liter
    6. Thermos
    7. First aid kit
    8. Trekking poles

    Washing kit & Toiletries

    1. Waterproof washing kit bag
    2. Towel – medium size
    3. Washing soap, towel, tooth pest, toothbrush, etc.
    4. Sun lotion enough +50SPF (including total bloc for lips, nose, etc.)
    5. Handwash & sanitizer
    6. Toilet paper (you can buy it in the Lodges)
    7. Wet tissues

    Please read carefully our terms and conditions. Terms and Conditions are a very important part of the trip for members who are willing to book Expedition, Peak climbing, or trekking with Alpinist Climber Expeditions.

    The terms and conditions contain the information to the client regarding the procedures of Booking Confirmation, Payment and Refund System and Cancellation policy, and other important information about your trip. The Booking Terms and Conditions constitute a legally required contract between Alpinist Climber Expeditions along with you for the services to be provided. The details of our Terms and Conditions are listed below.

    Currency
    • Alpinist Climber Expeditions accepts payment in Euros (€) and US dollars (US$). The currency will be
      applied based on the location of the client. Once the initial deposit/payment has been paid, all
      subsequent fees will be applied in the same currency.
    Deposit
    • When Alpinist Climber Expeditions issues the written confirmation receipt of your deposit amount the
      existence of the booking will be confirmed. Alpinist Climber Expeditions kindly requests you to make a
      deposit of 20% cost of your trip. You are supposed to pay the remaining amount upon your arrival in
      Kathmandu. You need to send your deposit to the Company. In the case of the customized trip, you
      should do a 50% deposit as it will cover all intensive details. We accept a last-minute booking with 100%
      payment in some cases.
    Amendments
    • If you wish to make amendments to your tour arrangements we require notification to Alpinist Climber
      Expeditions in writing. If any government permits, flight tickets, or insurance has been issued and cannot be
      revoked and refunded you will be liable for these costs. You may also be liable for the cancellation fee of
      airfares purchased on your behalf.
    Cancellation Policy

    The future is unpredictable. Notice of cancellation shall be submitted by the client in writing providing
    a reason(s) for cancellation. The refund procedure will be as follows:

     

    • Cancellation before 60 days of the trip, 20% cancellation will be charged.

     

    • Cancellation Before 30 days of the trip 40% cancellation will be charged.

     

    • Cancellation Before 15 days of the trip 60% cancellation will be charged.

     

    • Cancellation Before 07 days of the trip 70% cancellation will be charged.

     

    If cancellation is made within the week of the departure or upon arrival in Kathmandu no
    refund shall be provided. Any remaining payment will be required at this time. The cost of
    Climbing Permit/Insurance/Equipment allowance is not refundable in any period of cancellation.

    Personal insurance - a matter of protection
    • Travel insurance is not included in the tour price, but it is a required condition of booking a trip with
      Alpinist Climber Expeditions and your responsibility to ensure that you are adequately insured for the
      full duration of the trip covering expenses against all possible risks including missed flights, canceled
      trips, baggage loss, emergency medical evacuation, high altitude accidents, and other unforeseeable
      events. All costs for emergency evacuation must be paid in cash in Nepal unless an insurance
      company has agreed to pay the costs on your behalf. It is important to ensure that your personal
      travel insurance covers all of the activities you participate in the Himalayas.
    Client's responsibility
    • The client / You are responsible to insure yourself with an insurance policy that covers
      medical expenses, flight cancellation, trip cancellation, emergency evacuation, and any other
      unforeseeable events that may cause loss to you.

     

    • The client is responsible to bear all expenses of personal nature and any extra cost resulted
      due to extended stay because of natural calamities, political strikes, and any uncontrollable
      events.

     

    • The client is responsible to book the flight tickets with a flexible time frame as traveling in the
      The Himalayas can be unpredictable. In case of missed flights, the client shall be solely
      responsible to bear the loss.

     

    • If you wish to add extra services mentioned by the company in the Cost Inclusions
      section of each package, you shall be entitled to bear the extra costs.
    Company's responsibility
    • The company is fully responsible to provide all the services mentioned in the Cost Inclusions
      section.

     

    • The company is responsible to introduce all the team members to guides, Climbing
      Sherpas, Staff, and manager.

     

    • The company is fully responsible to make the best arrangements for food, lodging, and
      accommodation during the trip.

     

    • The company is responsible to hear out the concerns of the member in terms of safety.

     

    • The company is responsible to make prompt arrangements in case of emergencies during the
      trek and expeditions.

     

    • The company is responsible to provide valuable service to the clients and deserves pay to
      the staff.
    Passport and Visa
    • It is your responsibility that you carry a valid passport and have rightly obtained the appropriate
      visas when traveling with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. Please ensure that your passport is valid for 6 months from the Nepal Visa validity date.
    Privacy
    • As part of the booking and permit process, we will need to obtain personal information from each
      client. Your personal will be kept by us in a secure way and none of your private or personal
      information will be disclosed for any other purpose.
    Authority
    • This agreement and the rights and obligations of the parties will be construed and take effect in
      accordance with and be governed by the laws of Nepal.

    Wishing you the best time in Nepal, Come as a friend goes as a family….. The land of Adventure and Hospitality.

    How hard is Island Peak climb?

    Island Peak is graded PD+ in difficulty by the alpine grading system. That means the route involve some technical climbing sections and glaciers of higher difficulty. There are also some short sections of steep terrain before we reach the summit ridge. Island Peak is a good introductory climb for beginners. It has some technical sections, but it does not require previous experience. You must be physically fit to attempt this climb.

    What training is needed for Island Peak climb?

    For the Island Peak climb, we recommend focusing on endurance and strength training. Any type of aerobic exercise, like long-distance running or walking 2-3 times a week, cycling, hiking, or gaining elevation with weights, is good preparation for this climb. A technical preparation is not required, as during the expedition, you will be able to learn with our guides the basic mountaineering techniques used for the climb. We want to make sure our clients come to Nepal with the right physical and technical preparations.

    When is the best time to attempt Island Peak?

    The best periods to attempt Island Peak are spring (March, April, and May) and autumn (September, October, and November). The weather during these times in the Himalayan region remains stable, which is perfect for adventure activities.

    What is the approach/route for the climb?

    On Island Peak climbing, we take 2 days of acclimatisation at Namche Bazar and an additional 2 days at Chukung. We then make sure your itinerary has both Island Peak base camp and Island Peak high camp afterward. Your body needs these adaptation periods when you are above 5000m. For better acclimatisation, you have the option of utilising either the Kongma La pass or the Cho La pass prior to embarking on the climb. For an added layer of experience, you could consider trekking to Everest Base Camp before proceeding to ascend Island Peak.

    What is the guide to client ration?

    On the Island Peak climbing trip, we provide two different options. The one is a 1:3 guide-to-client ratio, and the other is 1:1 private guiding. In both options, there will be one IFMGA lead guide and a Sherpa guide to assist you during the climb.

    Who guides Island Peak Expedition?

    For the upcoming Island Peak trips in both the spring and autumn seasons of 2024–2025, our professional IFMGA mountain guides will be leading the expeditions. For private trips and some of the group trips, our IFMGA guide, Prakash Sherpa, will lead Island Peak. Among them, other experienced guides will assist you during the climb. We want to ensure that our clients will have a safe and successful trip with us.

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